India Black Tea

By Mark “Dr. Tea” Ukra, Tea Expert

In India, there are three distinctly different tea growing regions. These regions are geographically separated, thereby producing three entirely different teas both in style and in taste/flavor. The three regions are: Darjeeling (North-Eastern India), Assam (far North-East India) and Nilgiri (South India).

DARJEELING
Nestling in the foothills of the snow-covered Himalayan range, Darjeeling grows this exclusive tea at altitudes ranging from 600 to 2,000 meters. The cool and moist climate, the soil, the rainfall and the sloping terrain all combine to give Darjeeling its unique "Muscatel" flavor and exquisite bouquet. The combination of natural factors that gives Darjeeling tea its unique distinction is not found anywhere else in the world, hence this finest and most delicately flavored of all teas has over the years acquired the reputation of being the "Champagne of Teas."

ASSAM
Assam. The land of the Tiger and the one-horned Rhino. The land through which the mighty river, the Brahmaputra, winds its majestic course. Assam - rich in nature's bounty and a rainfall ranging from 100 to 150 inches per year - a bounty that ensures a very special place for the teas grown here. These teas are referred to simply as "Assam" and offer rich, full-bodied, bright tea liquor. For those who favor a bright, strong cup of tea, Assam is "your cup of tea."

NILGIRI
The Blue Mountains or the Nilgiris are situated in South India. They are a picturesque range of undulating hilly landscapes where tea is grown at elevations ranging from 1,000 meters to 2,500 meters. Rainfall varies from 60 inches to 90 inches annually. These conditions favor the fine, elegant flavor and brisk liquor of Nilgiri teas. The combination of fragrance and briskness makes Nilgiri a truly unique tea, the like of which can be found nowhere else in the world. If you like a fragrant tea with good body and superlative flavor, Nilgiri should be the one for you.

India currently has approximately one million acres under tea cultivation which supports approximately 14,000 tea estates, with a total work force of about one million people.

History of India Teas

Assam:

1. The tea industry in India was created to satisfy England's desire for high quality black teas without dependency on trade with China. First, the British East India Company's monopoly of the tea trade and its dominance over India where the Company maintained the largest private army in history had to be broken. At the same time growers and tea experts were experimenting with seeds, plants and cuttings secured from China which they believed would grow in India's climate. Notably, an indigenous strain of tea plant growing wild in India had been discovered years earlier. The year 1838 marked the first Indian tea harvest, a mere 350 lbs., to be auctioned in London. It was greeted with much excitement and high reviews from tea experts.

Some facts from tea Historian: Ms. Jane Pettegrew:

2. Long before the commercial production of tea started in India in the late 1830s, the tea plant was growing wild in the jungles of north east Assam. In 1598, a Dutch traveller, Jan Huyghen van Linschoten, noted in a book about his adventures that the Indians ate the leaves as a vegetable with garlic and oil and boiled the leaves to make a brew.

1875: Growing Tea in Assam. Six hand colored, engraved images from Harper’s Weekly, showing the process of growing and packing tea in Assam (an Indian province in the Eastern Himalayas). Text between the images describes the history of tea cultivation in Assam.

3. In 1788, the British botanist, Joseph Banks, reported to the British East India Company that the climate in certain British-controlled parts of north east India was ideal for tea growing. However, he seems to have missed the fact that the plant was a native to Bengal and suggested transplanting tea bushes from China. But his idea was ignored.

4. In 1823 and 1831, Robert Bruce and his brother Charles, an employee of the East India Company, confirmed that the tea plant was indeed a native of the Assam area and sent seeds and specimen plants to officials at the newly established Botanical Gardens in Calcutta. But again, nothing was done - perhaps because the East India Company had a monopoly on the trading of tea from China and, as they were doing very nicely, probably saw no reason to spend time and money elsewhere.

5. But in 1833, everything changed. The company lost its monopoly and suddenly woke up to the fact that India might prove a profitable alternative. A committee was set up, Charles Bruce was given the task of establishing the first nurseries, and the secretary of the committee was sent off to China to collect 80,000 tea seeds. Because they were still not sure that the tea plant really was indigenous to India, committee members insisted on importing the Chinese variety.

6. The seeds were planted in the Botanical Gardens in Calcutta and nurtured until they were sturdy enough to travel 1000 miles to the newly prepared tea gardens. Meanwhile, up in Assam, Charles Bruce and the other pioneers were clearing suitable areas of land on which to develop plantations, pruning existing tea trees to encourage new growth, and experimenting with the freshly plucked leaves from the native bushes to manufacture black tea. Bruce had recruited two tea makers from China and, with their help, he steadily learnt the secrets of successful tea production.

7. The conditions were incredibly harsh. The area was remote and hostile, cold in winter and steamy hot in summer. Tigers, leopards and wolves constantly threatened the lives of the workers, and the primitive settlements of the tea workers were subject to regular raids by local hill tribes. But they persevered and gradually the jungle was opened up, the best tea tracts cultivated under the light shade of surrounding trees, and new seedlings planted to fill gaps and create true tea gardens.

8. The native plants flourished, while the Chinese seedlings struggled to survive in the intense Assam heat and it was eventually decided to make subsequent plantings with seedlings from the native tea bush. The first twelve chests of manufactured tea to be made from indigenous Assam leaf were shipped to London in 1838 and were sold at the London auctions. The East India Company wrote to Assam to say that the teas had been well received by some "houses of character", and there was a similar response to the next shipment, some buyers declaring it "excellent".

9. Having established a successful industry in Assam's Brahmaputra valley, with factories and housing settlements, the Assam Tea Company began to expand into other districts of north east India. Cultivation started around the town of Darjeeling in the foothills of the Himalayas in the mid 1850s. By 1857, between 60 and 70 acres were under tea and, whereas the China variety of the tea plant had not liked the conditions in Assam, here at elevations of 2500 to 6000 feet, it grew well. The company pushed on into Terai and Dooars and even into the remote Kangra valley, 800 miles west of Darjeeling.

10. In the south western tip of the country, experimental plantings had been made in 1835, while the first nurseries were being established in Assam, and by the mid 1850s tea was growing successfully alongside coffee. The climate of the Nilgiri Hills, or Blue Mountains, seemed to suit the plant, and the area under tea steadily expanded.

11. In 1853, India exported 183.4 tons of tea. By 1870, that figure had increased to 6,700 tons and by 1885, 35,274 tons.

12. Today, India is one of the world's largest producers of tea with 13,000 gardens and a workforce of more than 2 million people.

Darjeeling Tea History:

1.The story of Darjeeling Tea started some 150 years ago when a Dr. Campbell, a civil surgeon, planted tea seeds from Keemun, China in his garden at Beechwood, Darjeeling, 7000 ft above sea level as an experiment. He was reasonably successful in raising the plant because the government, in 1847, elected to put out tea nurseries in this area.

2. According to records, in 1852, the first commercial tea gardens planted out by the British tea interests were Tukvar, Steinthal and Aloobari tea estates in and around Darjeeling.

3. Darjeeling was then only a sparsely populated hamlet which was being used as a hill resort by the army and some affluent people. Tea, being a labour intensive enterprise, required sufficient numbers of workers to plant, tend, pluck and finally manufacture the produce. For this, employment was offered to people from across the border of Nepal.

4. It appears that in 1866, Darjeeling had 39 gardens producing a total crop of 21,000 kilograms of tea. In 1870, the number of gardens increased to 56 to produce about 71,000 kgs of tea

harvested from 4,400 hectares. During 1860-64, the Darjeeling Company was established with 4 gardens while the Darjeeling Consolidated Tea Co. dates back to 1896. By 1874, tea in Darjeeling was found to be a profitable venture and there were 113 gardens with approximately 6,000 hectares.

Geography of Darjeeling

Mount Kanchenjunga from Batasia loop, a bend of the Darjeeling Himalaya Railway just outside the town of Darjeeling

The town of Darjeeling is located in the Darjeeling district of the eastern Indian state of West Bengal at an average elevation of 6,982 ft. or 2,134 m.[11] Located in Darjeeling Himalayan hill region of West Bengal, Darjeeling is just east of Nepal, just south of Sikkim, and south-west of Bhutan. Darjeeling town is situated on the Darjeeling-Jalapahar range that originates from Ghum (south of Darjeeling). The range is shaped like the English letter 'Y', the base resting at Katapahar and Jalapahar while two arms diverge from the Mall. The arm towards the North East dips suddenly and ends in the Lebong spur, the other arm running North West passes through the St. Joseph's College and finally ends in the valley near Tukver Tea Estate.[10]

Darjeeling is the main town of the Sadar subdivision of the district of Darjeeling and also the headquarters of the district. Most of the Darjeeling district, including the town of Darjeeling, lies in the Shiwalik Hills (or Lower Himalaya). The soil is chiefly composed of sandstone and conglomerate formations which are the solidified and upheaved detritus of the great range of Himalaya in their rear. However, the soil is often poorly consolidated. The permeable sediments and poorly-developed soils of the region do not retain water between rains and is usually considered not suitable for agriculture. the area has steep slopes and soft, loose topsoil, leading to frequent landslides in the monsoon season. According to the Bureau of Indian Standards, the town falls under seismic zone-IV, (in a scale of I to V, in order of increasing proneness to earthquakes)[12] near the convergent boundary of the Indian and the Eurasian tectonic plates. The hills are nestled within higher peaks and the snow-clad Himalayan ranges tower over the town in the distance. Mount Kanchenjunga at 8,591 m (28,185 feet) the world's third tallest peak, is clearly visible from Darjeeling, and in clear days, Mount Everest (8,848 m) is also visible.

Flora around Darjeeling includes temperate, deciduous forests of poplar, birch, oak, and elm, as well as evergreen, coniferous trees of wet alpine. Densely forested regions of these evergreens lie around the town. A wide variety of rare orchids are also found in the surrounding forests. The Lloyd's Botanical Garden showcases and preserves common and rare species of flora, while the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park is the only specialised zoo in the country conserving and breeding endangered Himalayan species.[13]

Climate of Darjeeling
The area has temperate climate and has five distinct seasons: spring, summer, autumn, winter, and the monsoons. Summers (lasting from May to June) are mild, with maximum temperatures barely crossing 25 °C (77 °F). The monsoon season (June to September) are characterised by torrential monsoon rains that lash the town. The monsoons are severe, often causing landslides that often block Darjeeling's land access to the rest of the country. Winters (December to February) see average temperatures averaging 5–7 °C (41–44 °F). Occasionally the temperature may drop below freezing, inducing rare snowfall. During the monsoon and winter seasons, Darjeeling is often shrouded in mist and fog. The annual mean temperature is 12 °C (53 °F); monthly mean temperatures range from 5–17 °C (41 62 °F).[14] The highest temperature ever recorded in the district was 26.7 °C (80.1 °F) on 23 August 1957. The lowest ever recorded was -5 °C (23 °F) on 11 February 1905.[15] The average annual precipitation is 281.8 cm (110.9 in), with the highest average precipitation occurring in July (75.3 cm or 29.6 in).[14] The town of Darjeeling and surrounding region continues to face deforestation (due to increasing demand for fuelwood and timber) as well as air pollution (from an increasing vehicular traffic).[16]

Types of Important India Black Teas:

1. Darjeeling First Flush:

A. With its green hills, fresh clean air and temperate weather, Darjeeling is a PARADISE ON EARTH. The tea industry in Darjeeling is very dependent on the weather conditions and is affected by any change in the timely arrival of rains to the region. During winter, the tea gardens go through a period of dormancy due to cold weather. The tea bushes are pruned immediately before the onset of winter. A normal winter period is from December to February.

B. The month of March brings the first batch of showers and the tea bushes produce a new growth of leaf---the first flush. The telltale greenish look of this leaf is indicative of a good First Flush. The tea is delicate and light, very aromatic and, of course, has a superb flavor.

C. As the season progresses, Second Flush Darjeeling is coming in and value based on quality will be reflected in market prices. Some of these Second Flush Darjeeling prices may be high and only time will tell if they will be worth the asking price.

2. Assam:

A. As with Darjeeling, has a first flush and a second flush. The first flush has a rich and fresh aroma; the second flush produces the famous "tippy teas." It is this feature of the teas of the second flush which makes them more popular. (Tippy refers to black tea with gold tips or what appears to be golden-colored leaf). The amount of tip will vary dependent upon where in Assam the estate from which the tea comes is located. Additionally, not all tea estates have the ability or capacity to produce "tippy teas."

B. The golden tip present in Assam tea, tends to lessen the astringent characteristic of the tea and make it sweet and smooth. Therefore, Assam tea can be malty, sweet AND smooth, which are qualities enjoyed by all tea drinkers.

C. The production of black tea, of which Assam is only one, can be divided into two categories: (1) Orthodox and, (2) CTC (Crush, Tear and Curl). Tea produced using the Orthodox method is valued most by the international market. About 80% of the Assams I feature are produced using this Orthodox method. The remainder is tea I use in blends.

D. CTC teas are, for the most part, consumed in the India domestic market primarily because making tea in the India method is done by boiling leaves in a mixture of milk, water and sugar and some spices (producing a Chai or Masala) and the CTC teas produce a rich red color when they are boiled, thus adding a beautiful color which comes through the white of the milk but yet does not produce a bitterness (in that preparation).

E. Orthodox teas SHOULD NOT BE BOILED AS A CHAI ABOVE. They must be steeped (infused) according to individual taste preferences but as a rule of preparation

The Tea Estates of Assam

1. Ambika

2. Amguri

3. Ananda

4. Anandabag

5. Bahipookri

6. Balijan

7. Balipara

8. Bamonjul

9. Banglabar

10. Banglagarh

11. Barama

12. Baranad

13. Bardubi

14. Bargang

15. Bargara

16. Barpatier

17. Basbari

18. Bateli

19. Behali

20. Behora

21. Belseri

22. Betjam

23. Bhojo

24. Birjhora

25. Bogapanl

26. Bokel

27. Bongaigaon

28. Borchola

29. Bordeobam

30. Borholla

31. Borjuri

32. Boroj

33. Budla Beta

34. Bukhiat

35. Burrapahar

36. Chabua

37. Chamta

38. Chandana

39. Chapaguir

40. Chapanalla

41. Chapar

42. Chardwar

43. Choibari

44. Choonsali

45. Cinnamara

46. Cinnatolliah

47. Cooliekoosie Kampur

48. Dalgaon

49. Daloabapi

50. Dangri

51. Deepling

52. Deering

53. Dejoo

54. Dekhari

55. Dessoie

56. Dhamdama

57. Dhekiajuli

58. Dhemaji

59. Dhendai

60. Dibrugarh

61. Diffloo

62. Dikhomukh

63. Dikom

64. Dikorai

65. Doolahat

66. Doom Dooma

67. Doomni

68. Dooria

69. Fatemabad

70. Fulimari

71. Garampani

72. Geleki

73. Ginjia

74. Gogaidubi

75. Gohpur

76. Golakganj

77. Gopal Krishna

78. Gosaigaon

79. Halem

80. Halmirah

81. Haloating

82. Haltugaon

83. Harmutty

84. Hathikuli

85. Helena

86. Hilika

87. Hirajuli

88. Ialal

89. Itakola

90. Jaboka

91. Jakhalbandha

92. Jamguri

93. Jamirah

94. Jhanzi

95. Kachugaon

96. Kashikata

97. Katal

98. Kazirangz

99. Koilamari

100. Kolapari

101. Koomsong

102. Kopati

103. Kotalguri

104. Krishnakali

105. Kuchi

106. Kulsi

107. Kumrikhata

108. Laluk

109. Lamabari

110. Lapetkata

111. Latekoojan

112. Ledo

113. Loong Song

114. Lotabari

115. Luri

116. Mahal

117. Maijonga

118. Mangaldai

119. Margherita

120. Mariani

121. Mautley

122. Menoka

123. Methoni

124. Mikirgaon

125. Misa

126. Mokalbart

127. Mokpung

128. Moran

129. Mornai

130. Muttrapore

131. Nagrijui

132. Nakachari

133. Nalbari

134. Namati

135. Namdang

136. Namrup

137. Naya Gogra

138. Nazira

139. Nirmat

140. Nonaipara

141. North Lakhimpur

142. Orangajuli

143. Paneri

144. Pathalipam

145. Pavoi

146. Pengarree

147. Phillobari

148. Phulbari

149. Rajabarie

150. Ramgaon

151. Rangagora

152. Rangiuli

153. Rani

154. Rupajuli

155. Sadasiva

156. Sadiya

157. Saikoaghat

158. Salana

159. Sarupalha

160. Sepon

161. Sessa

162. Shalmar

163. Siajulie

164. Sibsagar

165. Siglijan

166. Simalguri

167. Simlitola

168. Singri

169. Singrimari

170. Sipajhar

171. Sisi Bargaon

172. Socklatinia

173. Sonaiuli

174. Sonapur

175. Soraipani

176. Sorbhog

177. Srirampurs

178. Talap

179. Tangla

180. Teloijan

181. Tengpani

182. Teok

183. Thoraja

184. Tihu

185. Tipki

186. Tongangaon

187. Tongani

188. Topia

3. Nilgiris, India:

A. The word "Nilgiris", translated, means "Blue Mountain"; and blue they are. They are the most spectacular and picturesque mountain range in South India. A very good friend of mine, who is in the tea business, came from the Nilgiri region and has always had a passion for the Nilgiris teas.

B. Nilgiris teas have long suffered the place of a third cousin behind the popularity of Darjeelings and Assams. Nevertheless, this third cousin is beginning to play a major role in some of the most successful gourmet tea ventures in North America. Nilgiris teas have the right balance of strength, color and astringency to satisfy the needs of tea drinkers ranging from the layman to the connoisseur.

C. The Nilgiris Tea Growers Association has made great progress in changing the way Nilgiris teas are grown and manufactured and the way they are being used in the industry.

D. Nilgiris teas produce bright and brisk tea liquors and they do not cloud. The tea-drinking public has yet to discover this gem of a tea from the south of India. I, however, have tapped into this richness and have been offering superior quality Nilgiris for years. The cost of a Nilgiris of superior quality can be high but the gain in quality of product makes this worthwhile.

E. Nilgiris teas are grown throughout the year, unlike teas from Darjeeling or Assam. Nilgiris teas are often referred to as "The Fragrant One." The flavor and fragrance of a superior Nilgiris is the result of the high elevation at which it is grown. Nilgiris teas are grown among eucalyptus, blue gum and cypress plants and the tea tends to have a flavor hint of mint/lemon/eucalyptus.

F. Coonoor is the tea center of the Nilgiris auction centers where over one million pounds are sold each and every week. During the rainy season this amount doubles to over two million pounds. The key players in the international tea market are present at the auction center every week to do their buying.

G. Nilgiris teas from the estates of Tiger Hill, Corsley, Craigmore, Pascoes Woodlands, Colacumby, Nonsuch, Dunsandale, Chamraj, Parkside and Glendale are of the best quality.